Title photo of Patrick Jaszewski introducing the pie crust comparison. Shows logos of Bon Appetit vs America's Test Kitchen vs Milk Street

Pie Crust Showdown – Bon Appetit vs America’s Test Kitchen vs Milk Street

This is pie crust 3 ways!  I test recipes from Bon Appetit, America’s Test Kitchen/Cooks Illustrated, and Milk Street putting them head-to-head to find out which crust is the best for your application.

Pie Crust Showdown

Bon Appetit vs America’s Test Kitchen vs Milk Street

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No-shrink pie crust - Milk Street

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No-shrink pie crust - Milk Street 42.358527, -71.054778 No-shrink pie crust - Milk Street177 milk street, boston, ma (Directions)

Each of these uses very different techniques and produces slightly different results.  They all have a place in your toolbox, so join us in looking at each one!  You’ll have a buttery, flaky pie crust that your friends and family will love.

The birth of a pie series

This whole pie series is inspired by my friend Fausto who lives in Panama and asked me to teach him how to make pumpkin pie.  So, I recorded videos for him, but thought that it would be great to share with YouTube as well as part of my Explorers Kitchen project.   Continue reading

Overhead view of lattice weave with foolproof vodka pie crust and a sweet potato pie filling. It is set on a marble table and a red buffalo plaid napkin and a pie server

Foolproof Vodka Pie Crust- (Adapted from America’s Test Kitchen/Cook’s Illustrated)

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Foolproof Vodka Pie Crust- (Adapted from America's Test Kitchen/Cook's Illustrated)

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Foolproof Vodka Pie Crust- (Adapted from America\'s Test Kitchen/Cook\'s Illustrated) 42.344315, -71.035078 Foolproof Vodka Pie Crust- (Adapted from America\'s Test Kitchen/Cook\'s Illustrated)21 Drydock Ave 210 E, Boston, MA 02210 (Directions)

This is my adaptation of Cooks Illustrated/America’s Test Kitchen’s “foolproof pie dough” crust originally published in Cook’s Illustrated’s November 2007 issue.  While I have their print compilation of all the 2007 recipes, J. Kenji Lopez-Alt posted it as well on Serious Eats.  My version of this vodka pie crust is slightly different in that I prefer to use lard instead of vegetable shortening.  It imparts a better texture, flavor, and has no trans fats.  In the video, I happen to be out of both and I use some schmaltz (chicken fat) instead. This is one of the recipes we tested as part of our YouTube video series investigating 3 different ways of making pie crust. Continue reading

Depicts flakiest pie crust originally by Bon Appetit filled with James Beard's pumpkin pie. Pie plate is white and is set on marble table with red buffalo plaid napkin

Flakiest Pie Crust – Bon Appetit’s Pie Crust

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Flakiest Pie Crust - Bon Appetit's Pie Crust

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Flakiest Pie Crust - Bon Appetit\'s Pie Crust 40.712968, -74.015289 Bon Appetit - Flakiest Pie Crust1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007 (Directions)

This is Bon Appetit’s pie crust, in fact, their “Flakiest Pie Crust”, one of the recipes we tested as part of our YouTube video series investigating 3 different ways of making pie crust.  It is super simple – only a handful of ingredients and a bowl, bench scraper, and a rolling pin.   You can make this easily at home. Continue reading

Close-up photo of no-shrink pie crust originally by Milk Street. Also shows custard brown sugar tart filling with a red buffalo plaid napkin and flowers

No-shrink pie crust – Milk Street

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No-shrink pie crust - Milk Street

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No-shrink pie crust - Milk Street 42.358527, -71.054778 No-shrink pie crust - Milk Street177 milk street, boston, ma (Directions)

This is my first run at testing Milk Street’s Foolproof Single-Crust Pie Dough. In the recipe they published in their Milk Street magazine, they claim that it makes a crust that doesn’t shrink when it bakes. I’ve had great luck with the Foolproof Vodka Pie Crust originally developed by Christopher Kimball’s other venture Cooks Illustrated/America’s Test Kitchen, so I wanted to test this one out too.  It grabbed my attention right away because it uses a novel way of getting the water into the recipe.  It has you make a gel with water and cornstarch by heating it in the microwave for a few seconds.  The recipe also calls for some sour cream, an ingredient that I don’t often see in pie crusts. I wanted to test this no-shrink pie crust right away and compare it to other methods.

Our comparison videos

Here is part one of the two-part series.  I go through each recipe up to the point of rolling out and baking the no-shrink pie crust and two others:

In part two, I roll out each recipe and give commentary on how easy each recipe is to work with.  Finally, I bake and taste each crust and share my feedback.

Here’s the recipe in print.

No-shrink pie crust – Milk Street

No-shrink pie crust – Milk Street

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1 ratings
Category: dessert
Cuisine: French, American
No-shrink pie crust – Milk Street

Ingredients

2 hours, 3 minutes
8
359
  • 3 tablespoons water
  • 2 teaspoons cornstarch
  • 159g (about 1 cup + 2 tablespoons) flour, all-purpose
  • 2 teaspoons sugar
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 10 tablespoons (1.25 sticks) butter, frozen or very cold, sliced every quarter inch
  • 2 tablespoons sour cream

Instructions

Prep
2 hours
Cook
30 minutes
Ready in
2 hours, 3 minutes
  1. Whisk together water and cornstarch in a cup or small bowl until fully incorporated
  2. Microwave on high, stirring once until gooey/set, about 30 to 40 seconds
  3. Set in freezer to cool for 10 minutes
  4. Add flour, sugar, and salt to food processor. Run the processor for 2-5 seconds to incorporate
  5. Add chilled water/cornstarch gel (it should wiggle like gelatin) and pulse 5 times to combine
  6. Add butter and sour cream
  7. Run the processor for a bout 15 to 30 seconds, just until the dough starts to "ball-up" and stick to the blade (see video)
  8. Turn the dough out onto plastic wrap, form a 4-5 inch disc
  9. Wrap up the dough and rest in refrigerator for 1 hour to 4 days
  10. Add the butter and sour cream and process until the dough comes together and begins to collect around the blade, 20 to 30 seconds.
  11. Turn the dough out onto plastic wrap and pat into a 4-5 inch disc
  12. Wrap up the dough and rest in refrigerator for 1 hour to 4 days
  13. Heat oven to 375F
  14. Roll out the dough as needed for your recipe and lay into pie tin carefully- take care not to stretch the dough
  15. Chill in the freezer for 15 minutes
  16. Blind bake, covered in foil 3/4 full with pie weights for 25 minutes, rotating once
  17. Remove the foil and weights
  18. Return to oven for 5-7 minutes to brown crust
  19. Cool on a rack for about an hour before filling and using for recipe as needed

Nutrition information

Serving Size: 44g
Calories per serving: 359
Fat per serving: 23.16g
Saturated fat per serving: 14.261g
Carbs per serving: 31.76g
Protein per serving: 5.27g
Fiber per serving: 1g
Sugar per serving: 2.67g
Sodium per serving: 354mg
Trans fat per serving: 0g
Cholesterol per serving: 45mg
https://explorers.kitchen/recipes/no-shrink-pie-crust/

Tasting and lessons learned Nutrition data for Milk Street Crust

This no-shrink pie crust worked really well!  I love the flavor of the sour cream in the crust – it’s slightly tangy in a very pleasant way.  The sour cream seemed to aid the browning reactions and added some flavor complexity.  It wasn’t quite as buttery as the Bon Appetit recipe, but it was every bit as good.

Rolling it out took some patience.  It’s a little fussy to work with and there are a lot of steps to bring it together and bake relative to a traditional recipe.  In my opinion, it was not as easy to handle as it was advertised by Milk Street.  It was supposed to roll-out like Play-Doh, but that was not my experience.  I’ll use it again in the future and hope that it will handle better.

Please let me know down in the comments if you’ve had the same experience or if it worked great for you!

Sous vide Leftover Doughnut Praline Bread Pudding aka “French Toast Casserole”


Overhead view of Leftover Doughnut Praline Bread Pudding aka French Toast Casserole with whipped cream and a spoon

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Sous vide Leftover Doughnut Praline Bread Pudding aka “French Toast Casserole” 40.135800, -75.520100 Sous vide Leftover Doughnut Praline Bread Pudding aka “French Toast Casserole”Phoenixville Pennsylvania, United States of America (Directions)

The story of this recipe begins with doughnuts. Stale doughnuts turned into delicious bread pudding.

Well… maybe not quite. It really starts with pralines and my failure making them last Christmas. But I’ll get back to that. For now, let’s talk about doughnuts.

We had a big meeting at work a few weeks ago and I bought dozens doughnuts and bagels for the crowd. Okay, I overdid it a little bit. There was a dozen and a half raised, yeast doughnuts left over that nobody ate and I saw them sitting around the office a few days later.

We don’t waste food

Now I grew up in a family of 8 and learned not to waste food around my house, so I would be damned if I would let these go to waste as well. But what to do with them?

My birthday was coming up and I usually liked to bring in doughnuts or something nice for my co-workers. Could I turn these stale ones into something delicious? My mind went straight to breakfast casserole or bread pudding and I knew that I could pull some culinary necromancy and animate them into something new.

When I was designing this bread pudding recipe, I also knew that I wanted to use sous vide for quality of end result and ease of preparation. I wanted to be able to do the prep work the day before, drop it in the sous vide bath to do the cooking, pull it out when I wake up, finish it and go without having to wake up 3 hours earlier than usual to start cooking.

I also knew that I wanted to add an interesting topping on top. The texture of bread pudding can be homogeneous and uninteresting without some added textural elements. I’m not a huge fan of raisins in my bread pudding, so nuts fit the bill perfectly. Pecans to be specific. And I had the perfect source just waiting for me in my freezer: my failed pralines.

On River Street in Savannah by Bruce Tuten candy shop storefront

On River Street in Savannah by Bruce Tuten

My Praline Failure

Last November, Jill and I swung by Savannah and Charleston on our drive down to Florida. On the Riverfront Plaza, we stopped into the classic River Street Sweets. This place is amazing! They make candy the old fashioned way and it is incredible.

Here’s a video I recorded of River Street Sweets stretching salt water taffy on an ancient machine over 100 years old. The machine draws and stretches the taffy, cuts it, wraps it, and delivers it via a complicated journey through a series of belts, elevators, and shoots to the bin where it can be scooped up and purchased.  It’s pretty cool!

But the real reason you go to River Street Sweets is for the pralines. The sweet, buttery, salty, crunchy confection of the South that is simply irresistible. Once you start eating them, it is hard to stop! So of course, after our trip, I had wanted to make them.

“Freelines”

I had heard a story many years before on NPR about King’s Candy. Robert H. King had been locked up in Angola for decades for his political activism and I remember that he had made pralines during his time incarcerated. Now that he was out, I wanted to make his recipe for pralines, or “freelines” as he calls them. I dug up the NPR article from 2005 and sure enough, there was King’s recipe.

It was a very long recipe to make, contrary to how simple it looks on their website. Hours of boiling milk and sugar on the stove to create a caramel and eventually getting to the hard crack stage for the candy. My failure with the recipe was because, in order to hold all the ingredients that King called for in his recipe, I had to use a 5-gallon thin-walled aluminum turkey fryer. It worked great the caramel started to get thicker, then it started scorching on the bottom. Not good! Sure, I could have kept cooking and hoping the scorched flavor didn’t get into the finished candy or I could cut my losses and end up with the texture of caramels.

I played it safe and went for the caramels. After I took it off the heat, I stirred in my pecans like you would for pralines knowing that the finished product would never have the crunch that pralines should have. But the flavor was great and I knew that they would be delicious as a topping on ice cream or something else in the future. So I froze them and waited for the right time.

Today was that day!

30 degree view of Leftover Doughnut Praline Bread Pudding aka French Toast Casserole with whipped cream and a spoon

 

Lucky Day!

I’ve always been a lucky guy. My favorite stoic, Seneca the Younger said thousands of years ago, “Luck is what happens when preparation meets opportunity.” Bingo, Seneca! I was prepared with my pralines and here was my opportunity!

And with that final decision of my topping, my bread pudding recipe was complete! I made it for my birthday and brought it into work. Everyone who tried it told me that they loved it and some asked if I would share the recipe. I figure that if I share the recipe at work, I may as well post it here too.

On Preparation

A few of thoughts on preparation. I used sous vide because the timing in my specific case, but you can easily bake it instead and I gave instructions for that too. I used my leftover failed pralines for my caramel pecan topping, but for the recipe, I’m assuming that you don’t want to spend 4 or 5 hours stirring a pot of boiling milk and sugar. Therefore, I’m calling for prepared caramels and toasted pecans instead, which will get you really close. And finally, the recipe I present here is the original size I made, but it can easily be scaled down significantly. You can cut it in half, quarter, etc. quite easily and still get great results (round up if there gets to be a fraction of egg yolks).

And finally, on doughnuts. I used raised doughnuts since they’re really close to bread, but I would think that cake doughnuts would work fine too, especially with the long soak in the custard. Many stores sell their day-old doughnuts for dirt cheap ($2.24/dozen at my local grocer), so you can make this recipe inexpensively. Or collect your stale doughnuts in the freezer until you have enough to bake with and make the recipe then.

While this recipe really doesn’t fit into our Explorer’s Kitchen adventure for foods around the world, it was a fun project to make and we think that your family will love it! In the end, I was able to turn two failures into a massive success.

Sous vide Leftover Doughnut Praline Bread Pudding aka “French Toast Casserole”

Sous vide Leftover Doughnut Praline Bread Pudding aka “French Toast Casserole”

Rate this recipe
2 ratings
Sous vide Leftover Doughnut Praline Bread Pudding aka “French Toast Casserole”

Ingredients

11 hours, 15 minutes
    For the pudding
  • 18 stale raised doughnuts (optionally: wipe off drippy frosting)
  • ¾ cups (160g) brown sugar
  • ¼ cups maple syrup (preferably “grade B”)
  • 14 large egg yolks
  • 2 Tablespoons vanilla extract
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon (we used Chinese from Penzey’s)
  • 1 quart (946 ml) heavy cream
  • 1 quart (946 ml) whole milk
    For the topping:
  • 3 tablespoons melted butter
  • Cinnamon for dusting
  • 1-½ cups of toasted pecans
  • 11 oz (310g) caramels

Instructions

Prep
8 hours, 15 minutes
Cook
3 hours, 15 minutes
Ready in
11 hours, 15 minutes
  1. Preheat oven to 325F (160C).
  2. Cut the doughnuts into roughly 2” (5 cm) sized pieces and spread evenly on parchment lined baking sheets.
  3. Bake for 15 minutes rotating sheets halfway through until doughnut pieces are just dry. Remove and cool for about 10 minutes.
  4. Meanwhile, in a stand mixer with whisk attachment, whisk sugar, maple syrup, egg yolks, vanilla, salt, and cinnamon until well combined.
  5. Add milk and cream and whisk until incorporated.
  6. In a very large bowl or very large vacuum/zipper bag, add cooled, dried doughnut pieces. Pour custard mixture over top and mix thoroughly with spoon pressing down on the bread so that it soaks up the custard.
  7. Cover bowl or close bag and refrigerate for 6-10 hours to allow bread to soak up the custard. (If you are in a hurry, you can shorten this time to 30 minutes.)
    If using sous vide:
  1. Set sous vide bath to 170F (76C).
  2. Fill one or two gallon freezer bags with the soaked bread/custard mixture. Press as much air out as possible and seal.
  3. Lower bag(s) into sous vide bath and cook for 3 hours.
  4. Remove bags from bath.
  5. Set oven rack to the top position and set to broil Low / 400F(200 C).
  6. Add contents of both bags to a deep 9x13 in pan (33x23 cm) (if your pan is shallow, use an additional 9x9 in/23x23 cm pan).
  7. Even out pudding in pan, then “rough-up” the top with a spoon leaving some peaks and valleys. Brush with melted butter and dust the top with cinnamon.
  8. Set pan under broiler until top is toasted and golden brown, about 5 minutes.
  9. Meanwhile, melt caramels in a saucepan or microwave. Stir in pecans and pour over toasted pudding.
  10. Return to oven until caramel starts to get brown spots, about 3-5 minutes. Remove and optionally allow pudding to set for 30-45 minutes.
  11. Serve with with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.
    If only baking:
  1. Preheat oven to 325F (160C).
  2. Fill a deep 9x13 in pan (33x23 cm) with soaked bread/custard mixture (if your pan is shallow, use an additional 9x9 in/23x23 cm pan).
  3. Brush top with melted butter and dust with cinnamon.
  4. Bake until custard is just set. Test for doneness by pushing down in the middle and no runny liquid should be there (about 50-65 minutes).
  5. Remove from oven and cool on a wire rack for 45 minutes to cool and set.
  6. Meanwhile melt caramel and stir in pecans.
  7. Set oven rack to the top position and set to broil Low / 400F(200 C).
  8. Spread caramel and pecans over cooled bread pudding.
  9. Return to oven until caramel starts to get brown spots, about 3-5 minutes.
  10. Serve with with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.

Notes

Most of the time is inactive. Only 15-30 minutes is active time

45 degree perspective on Leftover Doughnut Praline Bread Pudding aka French Toast Casserole

 

Tried this recipe?  Let us know what you think about it in the comments below!